Where the Rainforest meets the Reef

Our trip northwards on the Bruce Highway continued past ripening sugarcane fields, over multiple cane-train rail crossings and through verdant forests. A quick stop on the outskirts of Cairns for a replacement camper part (snapped door handle) was a driver-reviver stop on our trip to Port Douglas.

We took frequent walks along the flat, sandy Four Mile Beach (actually only 4 kms long) into Port Douglas township, a place that has Darwin and Broome vibes. We perused the high-end fashions and quirky souvenirs along Macrossan Street, walked the scenic headland track in a vain attempt to spot dolphins or turtles, checked out a marina-side market and frequented several establishments to sample their alcoholic and food offerings. Port Douglas targets a more affluent tourist (thought there are a lot of backpackers passing through too) and has many ways to part them from their money, with boat tours to the reef or crocodile watching (we spotted and droned over one lounging in the sun on the Mowbray River mudflats), overpriced and elegant eateries, a multitude of spa/beauty treatment options, pubs, bars and fashion and surf-wear shops.

Mossman Gorge was a lovely day trip. We spent our time enjoying the sound of crystal-clear water flowing over pale granite boulders, walking hilly tracks and level boardwalks through rainforests (spotted a Wompoo Fruit Dove, notoriously challenging to see but with a distinctive call) and paddling in refreshing croc-free streams (forgot our swimmers which was a bummer). It is a popular place but we managed to get many spots to ourselves, as people moved on.

Next stop was further north into the Daintree National Park (part of the Cape York Peninsula Aboriginal Land area), where the rainforest meets the reef. We camped on the edge of Noahs Beach, under the thick rainforest canopy. Days were spent exploring the area’s walking tracks, strolling the many sandy beaches along the coast from Cape Tribulation down to Cow Bay, avoiding crocodiles, feeding sandflies (we are covered in bites and are so itchy!), keeping an eye out for cassowaries (no luck) and other local wildlife (lots of various animals spotted) and using the time to slow down and relax. We rewarded ourselves on the last night with cocktails and camembert pizza for sundowners, as the rainforest clouds roiled and threatened over the mountains (but didn’t deliver).