We left Skye on the car ferry from Armadale to Maillig in grey, cloudy, wet weather and a south-westerly wind. That made for a choppy crossing with water sloshing across the car deck. Disembarking the ferry and appreciating solid ground, we headed down the coast, along yet another loch, as the weather cleared. Glenfinnan’s memorial and railway viaduct, with Jacobite, Outlander and Harry Potter connections, was a fun break on the road trip. On top of that, we have begun hunting castles, listing lochs and revelling in the unseasonable sunny skies.
Oban is a real treasure. We walked the main street, drove the hilly and narrow roads, loved the harbourside vibe and discovered an amazing vanity project by a local banker, McCaig’s Tower (or Folly). Wanda’s drone photos show the folly’s beauty and quirkiness. We lodged on the town’s northern outskirts, in a very Scottish stay – a holiday chalet that channels an upturned boat, sauna and glamping tent (a very Scottish thing as we have seen them dotted all over the place). We can say we’ve done it but also say they are underwhelming.
Lochs, craggy mountains, gorgeous glens, crystal-clear burns (streams), narrow roads and even narrower passes, clumped pine tree plantations, Caledonian forests (so much nicer than the gloomy pines), more lochs and even more incredible scenery (that photos cannot capture) – that has been the recurring pleasure we have had as we left the Highlands and Skye and headed back into a big city.
Glasgow is a city that has blown us away. It is visually beautiful, architecturally gorgeous, built on a very human scale and as friendly as a place should be. People have been so helpful, approachable and considerate. We had rail-station staff patiently explaining the complex ticketing system (we chose to walk more!), pedestrians offering help with directions and pub-table neighbours giving tips, even air dropping ‘must-do’ lists, and sharing stories. We have really enjoyed the incredible weather – high teens temperatures and glorious sunshine – and have found rooftop venues to make the most of early Summer. Sun and Scotland are not two words often put together!
Wanda had a wow moment, after we had visited the ancient cathedral (oldest church on Scotland’s mainland and oldest building in Glasgow) and the nearby 1800s Necropolis. From the hilltop tombs, we looked down on a row of elegant Georgian (and later) buildings. It turned out to be the Glasgow Royal Infirmary – the campus’ size, grandeur and palatial buildings took her breath away. The shortcut we took through the hospital to get to street level showed that the inside was as hospital as possible (think vinyl floors, soul-destroying colour palate walls and institutional-food smell).
Fan boy moment for Alistair – Charles Rennie Macintosh and Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh were Glasgow architects/designers of the early 1900s. Their designs are clean, elegant and unique for the time. There are several surviving examples in Glasgow, and nearly all were visited!
Wall art have given us a terrific and enjoyable way to see the city … there is an established trail to see the murals, usually on walls in grotty laneways and narrow wynds. We have seen different parts of the city because we went looking for these clever creations. Hunting the poignant, witty or evocative images has been a great way to dig deep into the city vibe.
Spending a decent amount of time in the city (3 days!), being able to walk the gardens, explore interesting buildings, enjoy the Springtime flowers, budding trees and wildlife and wander the sunny city streets has made us love Glasgow.
We had a lovely drive down to Cairnryan, through seaside towns such as Girvan, Maidens and Ayr, with cute harbours and petite lighthouses. This part of the coast is very geared towards seaside fun … golf courses, campgrounds, take away shops and oceanside promenades.
To help explain this post’s title: next experience is the ferry across the Irish Sea.
Add comment
Comments