Puffins and Pembroke

In the planning stages of this trip, many moons ago (think early-2024), there was an infomercial about puffin in South Wales. We realised that we could be in the area in late April which coincided with the puffin nesting season. No brainer … so it was an interwebbery search, tickets were booked (when they became available and they sold out fast). This meant we had another fixed point from which we worked backwards, plotting our trip. This was unmoveable but, as we have been here, the trip has evolved, destinations changed and routes rerouted. Thank goodness for ‘free cancellation’ options!

So it came to pass that we ended up staying in the small town of Pembroke, Pembrokeshire, South Wales. Why? Puffin proximity. And the added bonuses were that it had a hulking castle as its focal point, the very (and I mean very) central accommodation had a washer and a car spot and there were incomplete but still visible town walls Alistair could touch and hug. Nuff said. After a quick bunk in, we hit the castle and had a ball. Being the Easter long weekend, special activities had been organised. We joined the tour, were enlighteded as to the castle’s aggressive history and jumped out of our skins as cannon blasted and puffed irregularly as there was a Civil War recreation happening concurrent to our visit. Total aside: we have been amazed by the number of fur kids (dogs) that accompany patrons to places here in the UK. Nearly every venue has permitted dogs – from castles to boat cruises to restaurants. And not every dog has been ’a well-mannered companion’, especially when there are cannon being fired.

The next day was the Red Letter Day – PUFFINS. A boat ride to the predator-free Skomer Island took us to puffin paradise. We arrived on the two-by-one mile grassy outcrop unsure of what we would see. It was nesting time so we were not sure if they were going to be in their burrows or out and about. And out and about they were. We walked the island anti-clockwise, as requested [burrowing birds meant we needed to keep to the narrow paths and it was best for all if we did not need to step aside to let others pass]. Stunning views, glorious weather and an island almost to ourselves (only 200 a day allowed and we were the first 50 to arrive). Photos prove that we saw puffins. Talk about a perfect day. A post-puffin debrief was in a nearby pub, then it was back to the pier for another boat ride to see the evening commute home. The sky was full of guillemots, puffins and razorbills returning to their burrows, walls and cliffs. The beaches had their complement of seals hauled up for the night. We were too early for the Manx shearwaters to come home but we saw rafts of them on the ocean. And to top off the cruise, a few dolphins decided to dance on the bow waves for our entertainment. Alistair had asked about the dolphins and had been told we were too early for them, just as Wanda pointed out a dolphin elegantly leaping alongside. Our tour guide was over the moon and requested A to ask about Blue Whales and other rare visitors to the area.

Manorbier is a tiny coastal village with its own castle, Norman church and very pleasant beach. It is also a track head for the Pembrokeshire Coast Walk, and we walked a short but stunning part of it. On our return to Pembroke, there were more circumnavigations of the castle and Millpond with a sun-drenched pub lunch on a deck over the water. There were also wry smiles as we moved our clothes around the front of the cottage to dry in the sun.

South Wales was another awesome part of our trip; one that has given us so many unforgettable memories.