Black sands and majestic glaciers

Published on 14 March 2025 at 19:07

After a Northern-Lights -free night (hiss boo!), we feasted on a huge breakfast, fuelling up for the adventures ahead. First stop was the ‘sneaker’ Reynisfjara/Black Sands Beach, signposted as such. The towering organ pipe cliffs and caves and the beautiful sea stacks lull the unwary to stray too close to the water’s edge. Strong undertows are known to sweep tourists into the ocean, with fatal results.

A welcome scramble through interesting moss-covered lava was an enjoyable break from along Highway 1, as was the decent hike to the Svartifloss waterfall. We finished that 3.6km return walk and made a dash towards the Skaftafell Glacier. Underestimating the distance, a tight schedule and the tour bus’s departure meant we had to settle for a drone visit to the terminus, which was still stunning.

The highlight of the day was next. We arrived at Jökulsárlon/Glacier Lake and we were excited, overjoyed and thrilled to see hundreds of icebergs floating in the large tidal pool. Watching the bergs bob, spin and crumble into the water was fascinating. And we were blessed with the appearance of a curious seal!

Just downstream is Diamond Beach. Icebergs from the lake make their way into the surf, only to be washed up on the black sand beach. There they lie, like frosty, solid sea foam. It is incongruous to see brilliant white (or sometime blackened by the sand on which they lie) icebergs of various sizes glistening in the sun. Some were being rolled about at the water’s edge. BG elevated the exploration by bringing out a cocktail shaker, some Jökla cream liqueur (Icelandic Bailey’s) and shot glasses. He then chipped ice from a large, beached berg (800+ years old ice!). Deftly using the shaker, ice and liquid, we enjoyed several rounds of delicious chocolatey shots. Skál!

It was then a scenic drive along Highway 1 to the small harbour town of Hofn. Some sunset reflections across the water, enjoyable conversations over a delicious dinner and the hope of some Northern Lights rounded off the day.

Rating: 5 stars
1 vote

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